.post-head{padding-top:clamp(1rem,3vw,2rem)}.post-head__title{font-size:var(--step-4);max-width:20ch;margin-top:.9rem;line-height:.94}.post-head__lead{color:var(--ink-soft);max-width:46ch;margin-top:1.1rem;font-size:1.3rem;line-height:1.5}.post-meta{color:var(--ink-soft);flex-wrap:wrap;gap:.5rem 1.75rem;margin-top:1.4rem;padding:0;font-size:1rem;list-style:none;display:flex}.post-meta strong{color:var(--ink)}.post-hero{margin-top:clamp(1.5rem,3vw,2.5rem)}.post-hero img{object-fit:cover;border-radius:var(--radius-media);width:100%;max-height:78vh}.post-hero figcaption{font-size:var(--step--1);color:var(--ink-soft);margin-top:.6rem}.notice{border-left:6px solid var(--signal);background:var(--warning-bg);border-radius:0 var(--radius-media) var(--radius-media) 0;margin-top:2rem;padding:1rem 1.2rem;font-size:1.02rem}.summary{background:var(--tint);border-radius:var(--radius-media);margin-top:2rem;padding:1.3rem 1.5rem}.summary h2{margin-bottom:.6rem;font-size:1.6rem}.summary ul{gap:.35rem;padding-left:1.2rem;display:grid}.toc{margin-top:2rem;font-size:1.02rem}.toc summary{cursor:pointer;padding-block:.4rem;font-weight:700}.toc ol{gap:.25rem;margin-top:.5rem;padding-left:1.4rem;display:grid}.toc .toc__l3{margin-left:1.25rem;list-style:circle}.prose{overflow-wrap:break-word;margin-top:2.25rem}.prose>*+*{margin-top:1.15em}.prose h2{font-size:var(--step-3);margin-top:2.2em}.prose h3{font-size:var(--step-2);margin-top:1.8em}.prose h4{font-family:var(--font-body);margin-top:1.6em;font-size:1.15rem}.prose h2+*,.prose h3+*,.prose h4+*{margin-top:.6em}.prose ul,.prose ol{padding-left:1.4rem}.prose li+li,.prose li>ul,.prose li>ol{margin-top:.35em}.prose li.li-nested{list-style:none}.prose li::marker{color:var(--ink-soft)}.prose blockquote{border-left:4px solid var(--signal);font-family:var(--font-display);font-size:var(--step-2);padding-left:1.25rem;line-height:1.2}.prose hr{border:0;border-top:2px dashed var(--line);margin-block:2.5rem}.prose strong{font-weight:700}.prose code{background:var(--tint);border-radius:3px;padding:.1em .3em;font-size:.9em}.figure{margin-block:2.25rem}.figure img{border-radius:var(--radius-media);width:100%}@media (width>=64rem){.prose>.figure:not(.figure--portrait){margin-inline:-6rem}}.figure--portrait img{width:auto;max-height:80vh;margin-inline:auto}.figure figcaption,.gallery figcaption,.embed figcaption{font-size:var(--step--1);color:var(--ink-soft);margin-top:.6rem}.gallery{margin-block:2.5rem}@media (width>=64rem){.prose>.gallery{margin-inline:-6rem}}.gallery__grid{grid-template-columns:repeat(2,1fr);gap:6px;padding:0;list-style:none;display:grid}@media (width>=40rem){.gallery__grid{grid-template-columns:repeat(3,1fr)}.gallery[data-count="2"] .gallery__grid,.gallery[data-count="4"] .gallery__grid{grid-template-columns:repeat(2,1fr)}}.gallery__grid li{margin:0!important}.gallery__link{aspect-ratio:1;background:var(--tint);border-radius:3px;display:block;overflow:hidden}.gallery__link picture,.author-box__photo picture{height:100%}.gallery__link img{object-fit:cover;width:100%;height:100%;transition:transform .3s}.gallery__link:hover img{transform:scale(1.03)}.gallery__link:focus-visible{outline-offset:-3px}.gallery__more summary{border:2px solid var(--ink);cursor:pointer;border-radius:999px;align-items:center;min-height:2.75rem;margin-top:.75rem;padding:.4rem 1.1rem;font-weight:700;list-style:none;display:inline-flex}.gallery__more summary::-webkit-details-marker{display:none}.gallery__more[open] summary{margin-bottom:6px}.embed{margin-block:2.25rem}.embed__frame{aspect-ratio:16/9;background:var(--board);border-radius:var(--radius-media);text-align:center;place-content:center;justify-items:center;gap:.6rem;padding:1rem;display:grid;position:relative}.embed--gmaps .embed__frame{aspect-ratio:4/3;background:radial-gradient(circle at 30% 40%, #ffc72c2e, transparent 40%), repeating-linear-gradient(0deg, transparent 0 38px, var(--board-line) 38px 39px), repeating-linear-gradient(90deg, transparent 0 38px, var(--board-line) 38px 39px), var(--board)}.embed__frame iframe{border-radius:inherit;border:0;width:100%;height:100%;position:absolute;inset:0}.embed__play{background:var(--signal);min-height:3rem;color:var(--signal-ink);font:inherit;cursor:pointer;border:0;border-radius:999px;padding:.6rem 1.4rem;font-weight:700}.embed__play:hover{background:#fff}.embed__note{color:#c7d1e6;font-size:var(--step--1);max-width:36ch}.table-wrap{border:1px solid var(--line);border-radius:var(--radius-media);background:var(--surface);overflow-x:auto}.prose table{border-collapse:collapse;font-variant-numeric:tabular-nums;width:100%;font-size:1rem}.prose th,.prose td{text-align:left;vertical-align:top;border-bottom:1px solid var(--line);padding:.55rem .8rem}.prose th{background:var(--tint);font-weight:700}.prose tr:last-child td{border-bottom:0}.facts{border:2px solid var(--ink);border-radius:var(--radius-media);padding:1.25rem 1.4rem}.facts__title{margin-bottom:.6rem;font-size:1.6rem}.facts dl{gap:.4rem;display:grid}.facts dl div{grid-template-columns:minmax(8rem,1fr) 2fr;gap:1rem;display:grid}.facts dt{color:var(--ink-soft)}.facts dd{margin:0;font-weight:700}.callout{border-radius:var(--radius-media);background:var(--tint);border-left:6px solid var(--route);padding:1rem 1.25rem}.callout--warning{background:var(--warning-bg);border-left-color:var(--signal)}.callout__title{font-weight:700}.faq{margin-top:3rem}.faq h2{font-size:var(--step-3);margin-bottom:1rem}.faq details{border-top:1px solid var(--line);padding-block:.9rem}.faq details:last-child{border-bottom:1px solid var(--line)}.faq summary{cursor:pointer;font-weight:700}.faq details p{color:var(--ink-soft);margin-top:.6rem}.itinerary{background:var(--surface);border:1px solid var(--line);border-radius:var(--radius-ticket);margin-top:3.5rem;padding:1.5rem}.itinerary__title{font-size:1.9rem}.itinerary__title a{color:var(--ink)}.itinerary ol{gap:0;margin-top:1.1rem;padding:0;list-style:none;display:grid}.itinerary li{grid-template-columns:2.25rem 1fr;gap:.75rem;padding-bottom:.9rem;display:grid;position:relative}.itinerary li:before{content:"";border-left:2px dashed var(--line);position:absolute;top:2rem;bottom:0;left:calc(1.125rem - 1px)}.itinerary li:last-child:before{display:none}.itinerary__dot{border:2px solid var(--ink);background:var(--surface);width:2.25rem;height:2.25rem;font-family:var(--font-display);z-index:1;border-radius:50%;place-items:center;font-size:1.15rem;font-weight:700;display:grid}.itinerary li[aria-current=step] .itinerary__dot{background:var(--signal);border-color:var(--signal);color:var(--signal-ink)}.itinerary li a,.itinerary li span.current{padding-top:.3rem;font-weight:600}.itinerary li span.current{color:var(--ink)}.pager{gap:1rem;margin-top:1.25rem;display:grid}@media (width>=40rem){.pager{grid-template-columns:1fr 1fr}}.pager a{border:1px solid var(--line);border-radius:var(--radius-media);color:var(--ink);padding:.9rem 1.1rem;font-weight:600;text-decoration:none;display:block}.pager a:hover{border-color:var(--ink)}.pager small{color:var(--ink-soft);font-weight:400;display:block}.pager .next{text-align:right;grid-column:2}.post-footer{gap:1.5rem;margin-top:3rem;display:grid}.author-box{background:var(--tint);border-radius:var(--radius-media);grid-template-columns:4.5rem 1fr;align-items:center;gap:1rem;padding:1.25rem;display:grid}.author-box__photo{aspect-ratio:1;border-radius:50%;width:4.5rem;overflow:hidden}.author-box__photo img{object-fit:cover;object-position:50% 20%;width:100%;height:100%}.author-box p{color:var(--ink-soft);font-size:1rem}.author-box strong{color:var(--ink)}.comments{margin-top:4rem}.comments h2{font-size:var(--step-3)}.comments__note{color:var(--ink-soft);margin-top:.4rem;font-size:1rem}.comment-list{gap:1.25rem;margin-top:1.5rem;padding:0;list-style:none;display:grid}.comment-list .comment-list{border-left:2px solid var(--line);margin-top:1rem;padding-left:clamp(.75rem,3vw,1.75rem)}.comment__head{flex-wrap:wrap;align-items:center;gap:.25rem .75rem;display:flex}.comment__avatar{background:var(--tint);width:2.4rem;height:2.4rem;color:var(--ink);font-family:var(--font-display);border-radius:50%;flex:none;place-items:center;font-size:1.1rem;font-weight:700;display:grid}.comment--author .comment__avatar{background:var(--signal);color:var(--signal-ink)}.comment__name{font-weight:700}.comment__badge{background:var(--ink);color:var(--paper);border-radius:999px;padding:.05rem .5rem;font-size:.8rem;font-weight:700}.comment__date{font-size:var(--step--1);color:var(--ink-soft)}.comment__body{white-space:pre-line;margin-top:.5rem;font-size:1.05rem}.comments__more summary{cursor:pointer;color:var(--route);margin-top:1.5rem;font-weight:700}.related{margin-top:4.5rem}.respond{background:var(--surface);border:1px solid var(--line);border-radius:var(--radius-ticket);margin-top:3.5rem;padding:clamp(1.25rem,3vw,2rem)}.respond h2{font-size:var(--step-3)}.respond__note{color:var(--ink-soft);margin-top:.4rem;font-size:1rem}.form{gap:1.1rem;margin-top:1.4rem;display:grid}.form__row{gap:1.1rem;display:grid}@media (width>=40rem){.form__row{grid-template-columns:1fr 1fr}}.field{align-content:start;gap:.3rem;display:grid}.field__label{font-weight:700}.field__optional{color:var(--ink-soft);margin-left:.3rem;font-weight:400}.field__hint{color:var(--ink-soft);font-size:.92rem}.field__input{border:2px solid var(--line);background:var(--paper);width:100%;min-height:3rem;color:var(--ink);font:inherit;border-radius:8px;padding:.6rem .85rem;font-size:1.05rem}textarea.field__input{resize:vertical;min-height:9rem;line-height:1.5}.field__input:hover{border-color:var(--ink-soft)}.field__input:focus-visible{border-color:var(--focus);outline-offset:1px}.field__input[aria-invalid=true]{border-color:#b3261e}.field__error{color:#b3261e;font-size:.95rem;font-weight:700}:root[data-theme=dark] .field__error,:root[data-theme=dark] .field__input[aria-invalid=true]{color:#ffb4ab;border-color:#ffb4ab}@media (prefers-color-scheme:dark){:root:not([data-theme=light]) .field__error{color:#ffb4ab}:root:not([data-theme=light]) .field__input[aria-invalid=true]{border-color:#ffb4ab}}.field__error:empty,.form__status:empty{display:none}.form__status{font-weight:600}.form__replying{background:var(--tint);border-radius:6px;padding:.6rem .9rem}.form button[type=submit]{cursor:pointer;justify-self:start}.form button[disabled]{opacity:.6;cursor:progress}.comment__reply{margin-top:.4rem;font-size:.95rem}.hp{width:1px;height:1px;position:absolute;left:-10000px;overflow:hidden}.form-notice{border-radius:6px;margin-top:1rem;padding:.9rem 1.1rem;font-weight:600;display:none}.form-notice:target,.form-notice.is-visible{display:block}.form-notice--ok{background:var(--tint);border-left:6px solid #2e7d32}.form-notice--error{background:var(--warning-bg);border-left:6px solid var(--signal)}
